"Why Tango in Paris, when you can Foxtrot in Kowloon?"
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      • Jumpers, pill poppers and the indoor BBQ
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      • Baptism By Fire
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    • Anatomy of the 50 cent Riot - 1966
    • The Fall of a Commissioner.
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    • Uncle Ho
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    • Zulu
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  • The Long Read
    • How The Walls Come Down
    • War in Ukraine - the narrative and other stuff.
    • The Hidden Leader
    • The Big Game
  • Walter's Blog.
  • Home
  • Introduction
  • About Walter
    • 1980 Joining Up - Grafton Street >
      • Arrival and First Impressions
      • First Week
      • Training
      • Passing Out
    • Yaumati Cowboy >
      • Getting on the Streets
      • Tempo of the City
      • Jumpers, pill poppers and the indoor BBQ
      • Into a Minefield.
    • Why Tango in Paris, when you can Foxtrot in Kowloon? >
      • Baptism By Fire
      • Kai Tak with Mrs Thatcher.
      • Home; The Boy Returns
  • 1984 - 1986
    • PTU Instructor & Getting Hitched
    • Having a go: SDU
    • Starting a Chernobyl family
    • EOD - Don't touch anything
    • Semen Stains and the rules
  • 1987 to 1992 - Should I Stay or Go?
    • Blue Lights, Sirens & Grenades
    • Drugs, Broken Kids & A Plane Crash
    • 600 Happy Meals Please!
    • Hong Kong's Best Insurance
    • Riding the Iron Horse
  • Crime in Hong Kong
    • Falling Crime Rates - Why?
    • Triads
  • History of Hong Kong Policing
    • History 1841 to 1941
    • History 1945 to 1967
    • Anatomy of the 50 cent Riot - 1966
    • The Fall of a Commissioner.
    • History 1967 to 1980
    • Three Wise Men from the West
    • The Blue Berets.
    • The African Korps and other tribes.
    • Getting About - Transport.
    • A Pub in every station
    • Bullshit Bingo & Meetings
    • Godber - The one who nearly got away.
    • Uncle Ho
  • Top 20 Films
    • 2001 - A Space Odyssey.
    • The Godfather.
    • Blade Runner
    • Kes
    • Star Wars
    • Aliens
    • Ferris Bueller's Day Off
    • The Life of Brian
    • Dr Strangelove.
    • Infernal Affairs
    • Bridge on the River Kwai.
    • This Is Spinal Tap.
    • Chung King Express
    • An Officer and a Gentleman
    • PTU
    • Contact
    • Saving Private Ryan
    • Family Guy Star Wars
    • Zulu
    • Hard Day's Night
  • The Long Read
    • How The Walls Come Down
    • War in Ukraine - the narrative and other stuff.
    • The Hidden Leader
    • The Big Game
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YOUR CART

Tempo of the City

Early in my Yaumati attachment, Chinese New Year came around as my first experience with this festival. Crime dropped to zero. An arrest over Chinese New Year meant terrible luck for the whole year. Thus, most of my unit disappeared on leave, leaving a skeleton crew and me.

We maintained minimum coverage. The night shift was weird, with little traffic on Nathan Road and only a few pedestrians strolling. It was akin to a disaster movie, with all the people gone and a few survivors wandering around. 

I loved patrolling at night, cutting through the alleyways, climbing onto rooftops, observing, watching, catching the pulse of the place, at Kings Park, a small wooded area, the odd car sheltered in the darkness under a tree.

Away from street lights, windows all steamed up. I could ignore it, or a quick knock on the bonnet to check nothing untoward was underway. 


After midnight, the public toilets on Public Square Street needed a quick visit. Home to a section of our gay community, some of the boys overstepped the mark. Hanging about, hoping for action, they'd give unwelcome attention to unsuspecting straight men.

Trouble was on the cards if the boys ganged up on some half-drunk punter. All this action is far removed from the high-living gays portrayed by Hollywood. These guys are having sex in a public toilet, stinking of piss, with used condoms thrown on the floor.

We needed all our tact and humour to get them out of the toilet block. Going hands-on and physical was the last option. There is nothing worse than rolling around on a piss-stained toilet floor, trying to restrain some hyperventilating man. Dodging used condoms is no fun.

I soon recognised there was a definite rhythm to the day in Yaumati. Early morning it's the street cleaners, as the fruit market opens. Then the drug addicts are out looking for their first score of the day. 


The old folks are in the park exercising, yelling at each other with a radio glued to their ears. A few sit in meditation, admiring their caged birds. 

The restaurants are opening for the morning crowd. At the same time, the die-hard party people are trying to recover. Coffee and food are needed. The road traffic is light. Then gradually, the tempo picks up as the school kids appear, all sullen and tired.

​McDonald's is now open, making a brisk trade in fat kids and office assistants. The roar of the traffic is now gathering pace. 

Commuters pour into crowded MTRS stations. The shops are opening, and the restaurants full, as the pavements heave with shoppers. Delivery boys rush back and forward, weaving through the masses. Lost tourists stand gawking at maps. They clutch their bags in fear of pickpockets. 

It's mid-morning. Things are now at full pelt. The air is thick with diesel fumes as a crack of thunder heralds the sheets of rain that fly in from the west. Rain is cutting through the humid, dank air.

The accompanying wind whips up the litter, scattering it skyward—as people cluster in doorways. Umbrellas duel for space as little old ladies trot along with plastic bags on their heads. Then, it's over. The rain is gone.

The heat is back as the afternoon passes to evening. Couples meet at the MTR entrances. The bars are opening; the nightclub signs burst into colour along Jordan Road. Temple Street is alive with strolling shoppers, meandering old folks.

​Pimps and Triads types shepherd clients up the narrow staircases to brothels. Meanwhile, the kids finish their homework in the cool of McDonald's as 11 pm drunks stagger home. It's now late; as the MTR gates are closing, the late-comers sprint for the trip home. The hookers are eating in the street cafes, with bored pimps, ever watchful and alert.

And then it's quiet. Only the hum of air-conditioning drowns the noise of a domestic fight that tumbles to the pavement. A lone dog searches for scraps as the street-washing truck sprays the road.


jumpers & Pill poppers

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