Marching, the Barber and Ammens Powder.
An Old Colonial Boy on the Border
The highlight of that first week was our trip to the border area, including Sha Tau Kok and Lau Fau Shan. Sha Tau Kok Village straddles the boundary between Hong Kong and the Mainland.
A row of stones running down Chung Ying Street (literally China English Street) marks the border. With the Cold War still on, and relations between the UK and China strained at times, Sha Tau Kok can be a tense place.
Indeed the People's Armed Police watched our every move. They shadowed us making great play of brandishing their machine guns. This was all rather sobering especially when we're briefed on an incident that occurred on the 8th of July 1967.
That day five Police Officers dead in a hail of gunfire. With tensions high and unrest escalating, a Chinese militia group attacked Sha Tau Kok Police Station. Needless to say, this is a sensitive area.
Our next stop was a much more light-hearted affair. We met the redoubtable Bob Wilkinson, divisional commander Lau Fau Shan. Bob greeted us seated in an old armchair with a can of beer in one hand and a cigarette in the other.
Nothing unusual. Except the chair was on the station roof, with a commanding view over Deep Bay towards Shekou. Moreover, it was evident from the many empty cans around him that he'd been there some time.
He proceeded to brief us on the surrounding area, including the illegal immigration and smuggling across Deep Bay. He displayed a complete grasp of his command. He named individual constables who’d made arrests over the past week. Going through a long list, we stood on awe.
Bob was a dying breed, who had served most of their career in the then remote New Territories. Rejecting Kowloon and Hong Kong as the 'bright lights', he was happiest living his life in the NT. Bob spoke fluent Cantonese.
His men worshipped him. He'd taken on the role of godfather their kids, proving a ready source of advice on schooling. He was part mentor, part father-figure and all-around old-school gentleman.
In Force folklore, Bob was the last officer to receive a field promotion. The story behind this gives some insight into the man and his values. For promotion to chief inspector, you need to pass the Standard III law exams. These were then held twice a year down on Hong Kong Island.
Working in a remote location, Bob faced something of a trek to the venue. He was upset when on arrival, the date was wrong. Somewhere along the way, the details got messed up, and Bob sought an apology for that mix-up. As none was forthcoming, he declined to attend the exams.
This went on for over ten years. Then Commissioner Roy Henry intervened to give Bob a field promotion to chief inspector. Even so, years later Bob was still upset that he'd been misled.
Bob was polite and insisted on proper manners. On one occasion in a pub, upset at the rudeness of a friend towards a barmaid, he intervened.
"If you persist with such rude behaviour, I must turn my back on you" he retorted.
I never got to work with Bob, although I met him a few times at social functions. Unfortunately, he died recently.
A row of stones running down Chung Ying Street (literally China English Street) marks the border. With the Cold War still on, and relations between the UK and China strained at times, Sha Tau Kok can be a tense place.
Indeed the People's Armed Police watched our every move. They shadowed us making great play of brandishing their machine guns. This was all rather sobering especially when we're briefed on an incident that occurred on the 8th of July 1967.
That day five Police Officers dead in a hail of gunfire. With tensions high and unrest escalating, a Chinese militia group attacked Sha Tau Kok Police Station. Needless to say, this is a sensitive area.
Our next stop was a much more light-hearted affair. We met the redoubtable Bob Wilkinson, divisional commander Lau Fau Shan. Bob greeted us seated in an old armchair with a can of beer in one hand and a cigarette in the other.
Nothing unusual. Except the chair was on the station roof, with a commanding view over Deep Bay towards Shekou. Moreover, it was evident from the many empty cans around him that he'd been there some time.
He proceeded to brief us on the surrounding area, including the illegal immigration and smuggling across Deep Bay. He displayed a complete grasp of his command. He named individual constables who’d made arrests over the past week. Going through a long list, we stood on awe.
Bob was a dying breed, who had served most of their career in the then remote New Territories. Rejecting Kowloon and Hong Kong as the 'bright lights', he was happiest living his life in the NT. Bob spoke fluent Cantonese.
His men worshipped him. He'd taken on the role of godfather their kids, proving a ready source of advice on schooling. He was part mentor, part father-figure and all-around old-school gentleman.
In Force folklore, Bob was the last officer to receive a field promotion. The story behind this gives some insight into the man and his values. For promotion to chief inspector, you need to pass the Standard III law exams. These were then held twice a year down on Hong Kong Island.
Working in a remote location, Bob faced something of a trek to the venue. He was upset when on arrival, the date was wrong. Somewhere along the way, the details got messed up, and Bob sought an apology for that mix-up. As none was forthcoming, he declined to attend the exams.
This went on for over ten years. Then Commissioner Roy Henry intervened to give Bob a field promotion to chief inspector. Even so, years later Bob was still upset that he'd been misled.
Bob was polite and insisted on proper manners. On one occasion in a pub, upset at the rudeness of a friend towards a barmaid, he intervened.
"If you persist with such rude behaviour, I must turn my back on you" he retorted.
I never got to work with Bob, although I met him a few times at social functions. Unfortunately, he died recently.